The good news is that whatever our financial status, and wherever we live, we can always dress and look wonderful! As the talented Gok Wan has shown on television shows and in books, stitching and personal creativity are the golden paths to being beautifully dressed.
My grandmother was a fashion icon, a dressmaker and master tailor of note. Sisters Ottmar and Gebhard who taught me sewing at school were amazing teachers. They gave great sewing tips to me, and here are some for you today.
Stitching and the way you press or iron a garment inbetween stitching are very important to the final look. If you press/iron a seam with a damp cloth or steam iron inbetween each line of stitching, the eventual look of the garment/clothing will be tailored, and look as if it was designer bought. If you live in a squatter camp or shanty town and don't have access to electricity or steam irons, an old fashioned iron (made of iron and with a wooden handle) placed on a wood or coal burning stove to heat it up, works fine. Please be very careful with wood or coal burning stoves, as there is always the risk of fire. In the last camp I visited, the coal burning area was outside the hut for safety. Only let adults handle the iron.
HANDSTITCHING
There are many times that 'a stitch in time saves nine'. If your children are growing out of their schoolclothes and other clothing very fast, let down the hems of their trousers - dresses - shirts, and iron them. Rehem the hems with a very small hem, and do this by hand. You can get extended use of our clothing in this way. Also, keep the clothing once your child has grown out of it, for the next child in line to use when he/she grows tall enough to fit into the clothing. Alternately, get an agreement going with a brother or sister, cousin or friend who also has growing children, so swop your clothing with each other as children grow out of their clothing.
Other times to use handsewing are when a button comes off (buy another button, and sew it back on. Sew the other buttons more tightly on by means of handsewing, because when one button comes loose, the others often start coming loose too). If the stitching in a seam comes loose and the seam gapes open, a quick line of handstitching can save the day. Another tip is to sew all existing buttons on tightly when you buy a new garment to ensure good wear.
If the top of a dress or top is too loose and gapes open, a few stitches and possibly a dart or too can make the top better fitting. If you put on weight or lose weight, and your clothing becomes too tight, or too loose, a few stitches or a let out seam can save you having to purchase a whole new wardrobe.
At maternity time, you will be able to let out clothing. After baby is born, you can take in the seams again. All this freedom to keep on looking great is by means of the humble needle and thread, and your amazing and creative sewing.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
Thread
I personally find that cotton thread in the colour of the garment/clothing you wish to sew is the easiest for handsewing. Match the colour of the thread to the garment.
Acrylic thread is great for overlocker machine sewing.
Use a black thread for a black dress or trousers; dark blue thread for a dark blue garment. Use white thread on a white garment, and a pink thread for a pink top. Any sewing shop will be able to help you learn how to match your thread to your garment.
Take the garment along, or if you are sewing a new garment from material, take a swatch (a small piece) of the material along with you. This will be helpful when you wish to match your thread to your clothing (there can be twenty different shades of pink or green, for example).
Needles
You will need needles.
There are four different types;
Sharps - long general purpose needles
Betweens - shorter general purpose needles
Crewel - these have a large eye for embroidery
Darning needles - these are large needles with large eyes, and are great for e.g. darning woollen socks, elbows of jerseys, and blankets.
The sizes of needles range form 1 to 12. The higher the number of the needle, the finer the needles will be. Number 7 or 8 is a useful size for general handsewing. I find myself that I now know after years of handsewing exactly which size I find best to sew with. You will also find the same.
Thimble
Wear a thimble on your middle finger. My ouma and my sewing teachers always used to encourage me to use a thimble, and a tomboy at the time, I kept on losing my thimbles. Sewing without a thimble can lead to skin being pricked by a needle. Always use your thimble - it protects your skin and the material you are sewing. If you are diabetic, please be aware that it is a health risk to use sharp objects such as needles.
Scissors;
A small pair of scissors for trimming thread is important. Don't use your teeth to bite thread - it's very bad for the enamel.
A large pair of dressmaking scissors is needed for cutting material. Keep this as your best pair, and don't let the children use this to e.g. cut paper, this will blunt them. Keep the scissors clean and dry. Sharpen them occasionally if necessary. Keep the scissors locked away. Children can hurt themselves with the scissors if they find them lying about. If you live in a squatter camp or shanty town, invest in a small suitcase or box which you can lock.
Pins
Fine stainless steel pins are great. I like the ones with little coloured bobbles on the top - they are easy to see and keep track of. Make sure you remove the same number of pins from your clothing that you put in. It is easy to get a deep scratch from a forgotten pin when you try on your clothing, or to stand on a pin when you've let it drop on the floor and forgotten it - painful and dangerous to those with diabetic skin.
Tape measure
Get a good tape measure.
An ironing board
An ironing board is helpful. If you live in a squatter camp or shanty town, and have neither the funds nor the space for an ironing board, you can iron on a blanket on a hard surface such as a table.
There are other items you can use for sewing, but these are sufficient to keep you sorted. I keep my sewing items in a small plastic resealable box which I bought years ago for a few pence, and which travels with me on all my field trips. It means that if I am out and my hem comes out, I can quickly sew it back in and look neat again.
HOW TO HAND STITCH SUCCESSFULLY
- I like to use double thread - I find a double thread properly knotted never ever comes out, especially if used for a seam or hem. Some people prefer a single thread. The choice is yours.
- Use the thread, and do not make it too long as it will then twist and knot.
- Stitch from right to left if you are right handed. If you are left handed, stitch from left to right if this is easier for you.
- Before you handsew e.g. a hem or seam, pin it in place first. Put your pins facing the same way, e.g. the bobbins on the end of the pin should all face either left or right.
- Then tack your hems or seams in place before stitching. This keeps it super neat and straight.
- Make a secure stitch to start off. I do this by placing a secure knot in the end of the double thread I use, and place my first stitch through the underside of the seam/hem I am sewing, so the knot is on the inside and cannot be seen on the outside of the garment.
Then I do a double stitch after the knot, this keeps the first stitch securely in place.
- Keep stitches even and do not pull too tightly. Stitches should be small and neat.
- Finish off securely ( I do this by making three small stitches next to each other, then passing my thread through a small piece of the hem, and then cut off the end of the thread).
I'll shortly make photographs of how to sew a hem, and how to use stitching we used to call 'magic stitching' because it never came out for us, and was not visible on the outside of the garment.
Watch this space!
* Great video on handsewing, with thanks to The Crafty Gemini
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2mfJweh8a0
*Photo taken by Catherine Nicolette - please feel free to use copyright free for any worthy purpose
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